When I first held a Hermès bag in my hands, what struck me wasn’t just the glow of the leather or the glint of the hardware—it was the stitching. Those tiny diagonal stitches, perfectly even and impossibly precise, seemed alive with meaning. They weren’t just threads binding leather; they were a language of tradition. That language is called the saddle stitch, a centuries-old technique that Hermès has elevated into an art form.

In this post, I’ll take you inside the story of saddle stitching: where it comes from, why it matters, how Hermès has preserved it against the rush of industrialization, and why it still defines luxury today.

The Origins of Saddle Stitching

Let’s start with a little time travel. Imagine Europe centuries ago, before sewing machines and mass production. Craftsmen working with saddles, bridles, and harnesses needed a method of stitching that wouldn’t fail under constant stress. A rider’s safety depended on it. If you’ve ever ridden a horse, you know the brutal strain a saddle endures.

The solution? Saddle stitching.

Here’s the genius behind it: even if one thread breaks, the seam doesn’t unravel. Instead, the other thread holds the line. That made it the gold standard for saddlery, bookbinding, shoemaking, and—eventually—luxury leather goods.

For Hermès, this isn’t just a coincidence. When Thierry Hermès founded his workshop in Paris in 1837, he was making harnesses and bridles. Saddle stitching was part of his everyday craft. So when the brand eventually expanded into handbags, they didn’t abandon their roots. They carried this centuries-old method with them.

It’s not just a stitch; it’s a living link between the brand’s past and its present.

What Makes Saddle Stitching Unique?

At first glance, you might confuse saddle stitching with machine stitching. But look closer, and the differences are striking.

• Two needles, one thread. Unlike machine stitching, saddle stitching uses two needles working through the same hole from opposite directions.
• Strength that lasts. If one side snaps, the other holds. Machine stitches can’t promise that.
• Visual rhythm. Each stitch lies at a subtle diagonal, creating a pattern that’s as beautiful as it is functional.

This is why Hermès refuses to replace it with faster, cheaper methods. It’s not simply about holding leather together—it’s about philosophy.

The Hermès Way

 One of the questions I hear often is: How does Hermès keep this tradition alive in a world ruled by machines?

The answer lies in their artisans.

The Training

 Before a Hermès artisan ever completes a bag, they spend years in training. Think of it as an apprenticeship in patience. The saddle stitch is one of the first techniques they learn. Mastering it means learning tension, rhythm, and angle until they can do it with their eyes closed.

I once read that an artisan may spend nearly two years perfecting just this stitch before moving on to constructing an entire bag. Imagine spending that much time on one tiny detail. But that’s what separates Hermès from everyone else.

Learn more about Hermès artisan training.

The Process

Here’s how it works, step by step:

1. Preparation: The artisan uses a diamond-shaped awl to pierce the leather, marking the path.
2. Execution: Two needles, threaded with waxed linen, pass through each hole from opposite sides. The artisan pulls them tight, creating perfect symmetry.
3. Finishing: Every stitch is hand-tightened, so the seam feels smooth, strong, and uniform. 

The result? A seam that lasts decades, feels buttery to the touch, and looks like a miniature piece of architecture.

A Hallmark of Authenticity

 Collectors and connoisseurs often use the saddle stitch as a marker of authenticity. Machine-made fakes may try to mimic the look, but they almost always fail in two ways:

1. Angle: Authentic Hermès stitches lean at a consistent diagonal, like notes on sheet music.
2. Durability: Even after years of use, genuine saddle stitches hold firm without fraying or unraveling.

 An artisan once told me, “A saddle stitch is not just about strength; it’s about rhythm.” And when you run your fingers over an Hermès bag, you can feel that rhythm—it’s almost musical.

Want to know more about spotting genuine bags? Read our guide: How to Spot an Authentic Hermès Bag

Why It Still Matters Today

So why does Hermès cling to this old-fashioned method in a world obsessed with speed? The answer is simple: luxury is never about shortcuts.

• Durability. An Hermès bag isn’t meant to last for one season. It’s built for decades, sometimes lifetimes.
• Beauty. Those angled stitches add an aesthetic dimension, elevating the bag from accessory to artwork.
• Trust. Customers know that saddle stitching is a promise of authenticity, care, and respect for tradition.

In an industry often criticized for fast fashion and mass production, Hermès proves that slowing down is its own form of value.

Stories From the Atelier

One of the most fascinating aspects of Hermès craftsmanship is how artisans describe their relationship with the stitch. Many talk about it almost like a dance: the push and pull of the needles, the resistance of the leather, the satisfying click when the thread locks into place.

When I visited an atelier years ago, I remember watching a young artisan practicing on scraps of leather. His mentor hovered nearby, adjusting his posture, correcting the angle of his hand, reminding him to breathe. It struck me that this was less about teaching technique and more about passing on philosophy.

The saddle stitch, in that moment, wasn’t just a stitch. It was an initiation.

A Legacy Stitched Into Time

For me, the saddle stitch is more than a technical detail. It’s a philosophy—a statement of values in thread and leather. Every Hermès stitch carries the brand’s history forward: from a 19th-century harness workshop to the ateliers producing some of today’s most coveted bags.

When you look closely at those tiny diagonal lines, you’re not just seeing thread. You’re seeing time. You’re seeing tradition, heritage, and the human touch.

And that, in my opinion, is the very definition of luxury.